Sari is iconic in its representation of Indian culture. The garment which is 4-9 yards long, has been draped to a women's body for the last 3000 years .
However, the modern sari as we know it has gone through many evolutions. , it is not the same garment as it was 100 years ago or even 10 years ago.
I will focus on the time period of late 19th century to early 20th century as the sari navigates the transition from British Raj to Independent nation state of India. Cultural influences and societal change from these political transitions highlight and morph the sari into the symbol that it is today.
I became curious about this topic once I learned that some Indian social media influencers are forgoing the blouse as a part of the sari for its connection to British colonization over India. Intrigued, I started this project to see how "Indian" this garment was.
My research for this exhibit has shown me that the sari is made/unmade and remade with the influence of different cultures and values as the governing body of India has changed. Outfitting the Indian women is a reflection of class and societal ideals. Marking that transition is the advent of the camera, and the introduction of cinema, which has propelled themes of identity, nationalism and ideal femininity. The dialogue between regionality (defining Indian states as a ethnicity) and nationalism is clearly seen through the influence of one sari draping technique to the next and shows caste/class differences.
The sari thus is an active and dynamic garment that alters and contours itself to the Indian women's body as a reflection of what it means to be modern, allowing history and culture to be embodied through it's textile , material, and technique of wearing.
Credits
Kirty Singh