Knife-Pleated Patchwork Skirt and Jacket

Origin: Italy

Year: Fall/Winter 2000-2001

Donor: Courtesy of Antonio Marras

Designer: Antonio Marras

Materials: Recycled vintage felt wool jacket, woolens, embroidery, appliqué, lace

The use of recycled povera materials with an excess of flamboyant ornament pushes this dressy suit outside the norms of convention. The garment is on orchestration of tensions between the ordinary and the extraordinary, business wear and evening wear, simple and elaborate. Even the heavy beadwork is a jarring counterpoint to the sheer netted top that it embroiders, creating a dissonant composition that somehow succeeds in its absolute audacity. The inside of the jacket, seen in the upper detail at the right, is as elaborate and dissonant as the outside.