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                  <text>1910s</text>
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                  <text>Sarah Porterfield</text>
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                <text>Within Our Gates is a 1920 film starring Evelyn Preer. It was made in direct response to The Birth of a Nation. It is the story of a black woman who raises money for a local school in need. She faces adversity and finds love along the way. The director and producer, Oscar Micheaux, was the first African American filmmaker. Preer wears almost the same outfit throughout the film. She is very put together. Her skirt is a hobble skirt.</text>
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                <text>UCLA Film and Television &#13;
Archive</text>
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                <text>Shirtwaists</text>
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                <text>The Shirtwaist Dress is shown in this 1906 magazine clipping. The shirtwaist was a staple of 1910s fashion.</text>
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                <text>Priscilla Publishing Co</text>
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                <text>Hollywood Before Glamour, Tolini </text>
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                <text>1906</text>
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                <text>Theda Bara played Cleopatra in 1917.  Bara originated the "vamp" trend in cinema and popular culture. Vamping became especially popular in the 1920s, as flappers embodied the ideals. It is interesting that while the dress culture of the 1910s was so conservative, cinema was already pushing fashion boundaries.</text>
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                <text>Born Fully Clothed: The Significance of Costume for the Silent Cinema Vamp</text>
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                <text>Jerry Murbach</text>
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